Beer reviews: UTOG Anniversary Ale VI and Ogden Beer Shadow Empress | Drink | Salt Lake City Weekly
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Beer reviews: UTOG Anniversary Ale VI and Ogden Beer Shadow Empress

A pair of ales from Ogden breweries that are not for the timid.

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MIKE RIEDEL
  • Mike Riedel

UTOG - Anniversary Ale VI: Happy 6th anniversary to UTOG! This week's first Ogden-made beer is a barrel-aged version of their Redeye Imperial Red Ale. I was pleasantly surprised to have this 10.3 percent ABV beer come in a 12 ounce can; I've long been an advocate of "big alcohol" beers in smaller packaging.

It pours an unfiltered dark amber color with a foamy, relatively sticky one-finger tan head, with average retention that leaves some nice sheets of lace. Citrusy, fruity hop scent emerges, along with a pungent whiskey aroma from the Outlaw Whiskey barrel. Some rye is found presiding over a roasted, bready backbone with some residual caramelized sugars. It's interesting and distinct.

The first swig reveals bread, citrus, spice—largely nice. The relatively dry, caramelly, biscuity backbone defines this one, with hints of marshmallows and bread, though it's accompanied by a relatively subtle hop quotient adding a grassy, prickly, back-of-the-throat-spicy note to everything. It's on par with the decidedly orange-zest-tasting hop notes that come later, resulting in an interesting combination. Medium-bodied, it brings enough carbonation to become full, puffy and thoroughly pillowy. You get plenty of spice from the rye, as well.

Verdict: A solid beer, and one I'm glad to have tried. Alcohol level is manageable and relatively well-hidden for its strength. While this is definitely not a barleywine in terms of flavor, it is so in terms of alcohol. It is an Imperial Red Ale with a barrel treatment, and should be enjoyed as such.

Ogden Beer - Shadow Empress: This is the first Imperial Stout to come out of Ogden Beer Company, and to start, it's poured from an attractive 16-ounce can. The stout is dark brown but with red hues in direct light; while the color is a bit thin, the head is two inches thick, mocha-colored and the "eye" of the head is bubbly and active. It smells of rich, sweet caramel malt, along with smoky oak scents. Some very soft baking chocolate and cream style malt also come through in the nose, with graham cracker and light roast coffee under that. Alcohol content is mildly detectible.

The first hit is a hoppy malt flavor with moderate green bitterness. It's not as sweet-tasting as it smells; there are some subtle chocolate notes as well. This is a very hoppy Russian Imperial Stout—perhaps not as hoppy as some that I've had, but the hops are quite prominent. The grassy tone that rides under the chocolate and cream comes off as complementary. The higher alpha acids and grassy, earthy hops add a nice bite. Red grapes and fruity sweetness deliver a mellow vibe in the middle of the taste, with a flowing current of wild berries peeking out from the density of malt complexity.

The malt base is a bit on the lighter side for the style, but has a very drinkable nature. As the 9.5 percent ABV would suggest, it feels a bit light for the style in that way as well. The lively, bubbly head gives it a smooth feel, though. Medium-bodied with the light, fruity current riding through; medium to full mouthfeel overall, certainly lighter and easier than most Russian Imperial Stouts.

Verdict: The feel is thin, but the ABV makes it a bit more drinkable than some of the heavy RIS. If you add up all of the fun aspects—like the ghostly fruitiness, the hoppy/woody tinged roast and the easy, loose finish—it equals a nice ride.

These may find their way into Salt Lake City, but you should do yourselves a favor and head up to Ogden and check out these and other O-Town beers for yourself. Ogden's beer scene is blowing up, and is an excellent complement to the one in Salt Lake City.

As always, cheers!

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