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Eat & Drink » Drink

Continental Drift

Regional flavors with broad appeal

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MIKE RIEDEL
  • Mike Riedel

Proper - White Raven: At its base, this is a golden ale aged in Sotol barrels. If you're not familiar, Sotol is part of the tequila/mezcal family, and imparts a very earthy and herbal quality to the spirit. Taste-wise there's definitely a steeper learning curve than most of its agave-based cousins. Over the years, my taste for tequila and mezcal has softened a bit; I've never been a fan of salt-and-lime shots, but as I prepared to crack open my White Raven, I paired it with a split of Sotol gifted to me. Since I didn't consume its entire contents, I had a shot to go with the beer.

The aroma was earthy and grassy, with some whiffs of vanilla down below. The mouthfeel was average, and the taste began with a strong earthy quality and a light wheatiness. Before the Sotol fully manifested, it gradually grew into a char that resembled caramel. Mmmm. You better enjoy the flavor of booze if you want to drink this kind of beer; despite having an American Golden Ale basis, it actually changed after its transformation in the barrel. The Sotol comes in waves, and intermingles well with vanilla and bubblegum from the base beer,

Verdict: Returning to the beer after trying some Sotol, it was practically impossible to distinguish between it and the beer, or vice-versa, primarily because the earthiness and that faint vanilla sweetness, which was certainly from the barrel's char, remained plainly recognizable. I'd be really interested to know what kind and brand of Sotol was used. The finish in this 7.0 percent ale was quite dry, but how could it not be? On a housebound evening, this was a tremendous delight. I could see getting another can.

Level Crossing/Easton Archery 100 Years: This beer is a collaboration with Utah's Easton Archery, celebrating Easton's 100 years of making arrows and shafts. This beer is a Belgian-style blonde ale with noticeable yeast spiciness. There's an aggressive amount of citrus peel that takes this into that witbier territory.

This peach-hued clear beer flows with a thick collar of beautiful Belgian lace and a billowing white head that retains its shape well. That blonde sure is hot! In this one, the Belgian yeast is prominent. Many esters—including earthy notes like clay and dirt, white pepper spice, lemongrass notes and a hint of clove—flow forth. Interestingly, it has a faint aroma that vaguely resembles skunky marijuana.

The sweet Belgian malt and smoky hops serve as an excellent foundation for the yeast esters. Further into the brew, a very subtle buttery note comes through. The spicy American hops and a slew of more complex yeast esters may stand out thanks to the crisp, citrus profile. The Belgian blonde is extremely spicy, though less so in the taste than the aroma. Lemongrass, cloves and white pepper are all similar to what you could notice on the scent—flavorful, yet in no way overpowering.

Verdict: The Easton Belgian Style Blonde Ale from Level Crossing is crisp and refreshing with just a hint of dryness showing through the finish, like a gentle summer wind. The finish begs for another sip due to the harmonious mix of the somewhat sweet malt and peppery hops.

The Easton Blonde is slightly bigger in alcohol at 6.2 percent and comes in Level Crossing's standard, 16-ounce can, available now at Level Crossing. White Raven also finds itself in a 16-ounce can. It wasn't too long ago that you'd never see a barrel-aged beer in a meager can. The times, they are indeed a-changin'.

As always, cheers!

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