It's been seven years since I took over City Weekly's food and dining beat, and I couldn't have asked for a better stretch of time to explore Utah's dining scene. In that time, local foodies have seen culinary empires rise and fall in a cultural melting pot that, despite its hardships, never fails to impress. We've seen chefs and restaurateurs from out of state recognize Utah's hospitality industry as a place to make a name for themselves and carve out their own turf within the Wild West of food trucks, commissary kitchens and takeout restaurants. We've had the opportunity to observe how so much passion, enthusiasm, conflict and struggle continue to evolve into something new, exciting and, above all, delicious.
This year's City Weekly Dining Guide is all about that brave new world that's just over the horizon for Utah's food scene. We've set our sights on culinary innovators who are snagging James Beard nominations and challenging entrenched beliefs about what a fast-casual restaurant can do. We're exploring the new and interesting ways local restaurateurs are approaching the wage gap. We've also taken some deep dives into how Salt Lake's plant-based restaurants manage to innovate and create plant-based versions of everything from fast-food classics to desserts. Along the way, we'll check in on some crave-worthy burger trends and what's next for our local mixologists.
Our 2024 Dining Guide promises to be stuffed with diverse dishes, heady cocktails, on-trend cooking and plenty of vegan options to make sure the calories don't count—that's how vegan food works, right? We'll always be enamored with Utah's food scene, and we hope this issue provides a sumptuous list of ways for you to live deliciously along the Wasatch Front.
–Alex Springer
Food and dining critic
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Dining Guide 2024: Utah's Dining Evolution
Restaurateurs at Bricks Corner and Basta Pasteria contribute to moving the local food scene forward.
By Alex Springer
Long before our dining and hospitality scene endured the myriad trials and tribulations brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic, Salt Lake's food scene was evolving at a rapid pace. If anything, the lessons learned by steering a restaurant through a pandemic has galvanized our chefs and restaurateurs into an unstoppable force that is hurtling into the future faster than ever before.
At the forefront of this momentum are the culinary minds who saw the pandemic as a lens with which to view a changing landscape. Those stormy years in which they opened restaurants were opportunities to usher local dining into a brighter, tastier future. Among these visionaries were Josh Poticha, whose hip eatery Bricks Corner (1465 S. 700 East, SLC, 801-953-0636, brickscornerslc.com) introduced many of us to Detroit-style pizza; and Giuseppe Mirenda and Elsa Medina, the team behind Italian fast-casual hot spot Basta Pasteria (6157 S. State, Murray, 385-474-2093, bastapaseriaut.com).
Poticha opened Bricks Corner based on his affection for Utah's powdery slopes; his last residence was in South Carolina. Snowboarding excursions led to a full-on relocation when he decided to bring Detroit-style pan pizza to the Beehive State. Not only did Poticha design Bricks Corner to serve the well-being of his staff and customers—the restaurant's HVAC system is equipped with UV filters, and three garage doors open onto the patio to improve air circulation—but he's found some crafty ways to upgrade the restaurant's vibes as well.
"At my previous restaurant in South Carolina, bars are the showcase, but in Utah, that creates a dilemma," Poticha says. "So, following the DABS guidelines, we were able to make the bar a showcase using a pony wall to provide the bar vibes."
Anyone who has visited Bricks Corner will know exactly what Poticha means here—the place feels like a pizza joint for sure, but it has all the trappings of a cool nightspot as well. What makes this vibe even better is that those who want to visit Bricks Corner with their kids won't find themselves in an environment that isn't suitable for all ages.
Poticha's approach to making Bricks Corner a unique destination in Utah's dining scene has helped break new ground on territory that was previously thought to be off-limits thanks to Utah's archaic liquor laws. Pizza, of course, is the unifying factor in the equation; whether you're looking for a cool nightspot to hang with some friends or a family-friendly restaurant that has something for everyone, the pizza at Bricks Corner will do the trick. But beyond that, the template that Poticha has created with Bricks Corner proves that it's possible to feature nightspot energy in a hospitality landscape policed by the DABS.
In a similar vein, chef Giuseppe Mirenda and his wife, Elsa Medina—who share ownership of Basta Pasteria—have managed to capture the charm of a fine dining establishment behind the guise of a fast-casual concept. Diners have been buzzing about Basta since it opened late last year because the power couple who brought us Italian favorite Sicilia Mia have pushed the boundaries of what a fast-casual concept can be in today's dining scene. "We love fine dining and that whole experience," Mirenda says, "But we wanted something fun that was high quality, which is why all the pasta and sauce is homemade."
Medina adds, "We're also parents, and sometimes it's hard to take kids to a fine dining restaurant, but here you're giving kids a healthy choice, and they can literally run around in here."
Like Bricks Corner, Basta has managed to create a hybrid of restaurant spaces that cater both to Utah's family-centric social scene and to members of the counterculture who need restaurants and bars to be reliable third spaces to spend their recreational time. "We do live DJs here on Fridays and Saturdays," Medina says. Basta's cocktail menu and wine selection go a long way to creating a nightspot feel, and its cozy seating arrangement is perfect for those who want to socialize while they enjoy their handcrafted Italian classics.
While the concept itself really needs to be seen to be believed, Mirenda and Medina are no strangers to trend-setting. "When Sicilia Mia first opened in 2014, there was nobody with a traditional Italian menu," Mirenda says. "We kind of raised the bar a bit for everybody to follow."
It's restaurateurs like Mirenda and Medina who help put Utah on the map for culinary minds from all over the country to notice. "The more people who come from different cultures and different culinary experiences, the more enjoyable our food scene becomes," Mirenda says. "We're cheering for everybody."
Whether it's engineering a physical space to maximize coolness beneath the watchful eyes of the DABS or being bold enough to serve house-made pasta with imported Italian semolina flour at a fast-casual restaurant, it's folks like Poticha, Mirenda and Medina who will imagine the future of Utah's dining scene.
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Setting Tables, Setting Trends
Two culinary innovators reflect on
thinking outside the takeout box.
By Alex Springer
One of the fun things about observing the pace at which our dining scene is evolving is seeing how confident it makes our local food and hospitality businesses. We've got chefs opening restaurants mid-pandemic, people trading up their commissary kitchen rental for a permanent space, restaurateurs turning to event catering as a side hustle and home bakers building a solid following on social media. All of this controlled chaos has spurred local innovators to step in and do something crazy like get nominated for a James Beard Award (like Urban Hill's chef, Nick Zocco) or challenge our decades-long perspective on what a fast food burger can be (like Loco Burger's Maria Cano).
When making a list of culinary innovators in Salt Lake, chef Nick Zocco of Urban Hill (510 S. 300 West, SLC, 385-295-4200, urban-hill.com) is showing up at the top. A New Mexico native who rose to prominence working a successful career in Las Vegas, he boasts a résumé that includes SW Steakhouse and Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill. Eventually, he and his wife moved to Utah, where he was chef de cuisine at Tupelo before being invited by the former owners of Park City's Tupelo to become chef for an outdoor concept in Heber called Afterword.
It wasn't long before Brooks and David Kirchheimer of Park City's Hearth and Hill approached him about taking the reins as executive chef of Urban Hill, their Salt Lake concept that opened in December 2022. "I felt like Salt Lake was going to be this big opportunity and that something was going on here, so I really wanted to be a part of that," Zocco says.
He definitely wasn't wrong. After only a year and a half with Urban Hill, Chef Zocco has been nominated as a regional finalist for this year's James Beard Awards. "It was a very humbling moment," Zocco says, "I am super happy to be a part of that community, and it's something I've always dreamed of."
Zocco's culinary aesthetic comes from what he calls "comfort food with an elevated touch," a humble statement describing a foundation of European classics that incorporate notes from Asian and Mexican cuisine to ramp up the flavors. When I bring up his role as a culinary innovator, Zocco chuckles. "I think about how I can take what I've learned and innovate there, but I just want to understand what people are coming out to eat," he says, "I'm innovating to help Utah diners experience something they've never had, and also help visitors from out of town see that Utah has restaurant quality that could exist in metropolitan cities."
As important as chefs like Nick Zocco are to the invigoration of our fine dining scene, we've also been fortunate to have restaurateurs like Maria Cano, co-owner of Loco Burger (1702 S. Main, SLC, 801-386-2875, locoburger.com), helping to further diversify our casual dining landscape. Loco Burger's rapid success has led to a second location in Kearns, and its efforts to bring a Mexican-style burger to the Wasatch Front have emboldened Hispanic restaurateurs to enrich our food communities with regional flavors from all over South America.
When I ask Cano why the Loco Burger concept has gained such traction, she refers to Eva Longoria's 2023 film Flamin' Hot. "American burgers have been around for a long time, and we're just putting a Mexican spin on it," Cano says, "We're the Flamin' Hot cheeto of the burger industry—the extra kick that everyone has been waiting for, and no one has done."
My first experience with a Mexican burger—think of it like a torta with a flame-grilled burger patty—was at Loco Burger, and I would bet that I'm not the only one who has benefited from Loco Burger's concept. Bringing a Mexican-inspired burger with sides and sweets inspired by Mexican traditions and flavors into a market overflowing with American fast-food joints is innovative on so many levels.
Loco Burger's success has paved the way for other concepts, and it's helped other members of the Latino community want to share their cuisine with others. "As a whole, I'm seeing a lot of Hispanics bringing their gastronomy here, and the Mexican cuisine has extended out a bit, too," Cano says, "With a lot of culture coming in and spreading out, Salt Lake might turn into a place like Chicago or Los Angeles."
With a food scene that encompasses culinary innovation on the fine dining and casual ends of the spectrum, it's becoming easier to recognize Utah as an up-and-coming gastronomic scene. When you think about the how the landscape looked even 10 years ago, our local chefs, restaurateurs, barkeeps, brewers and bakers have helped local dining grow by leaps and bounds. From award winners like Nick Zocco to passionate restaurateurs like Maria Cano, taking a stroll through our evolving food scene is more exciting than ever.
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What's in a Wage?
Some local establishments rethink the way service-industry staff are compensated.
By Erin Moore
"What's your incentive for doing your job well? That's a crazy question that you would not ask anyone else who has a job," says Rylee Syme, general manager of The Rose Establishment.
She's referring to a question that often follows that one: What would happen if service workers didn't have to work to supplement their very low minimum hourly wage by earning tips from customers? We checked in with some local businesses that are asking that question and enacting some changes when it comes to compensation.
When Nick Price decided to go "no-tip" at his downtown shop, Three Pines Coffee (165 S. Main, SLC, 805-395-8907, threepinescoffee.com), he consulted with friends from The Rose—Syme and owner Erica O'Brien—who went no-tip in 2021. When he made the change in January of this year, it made national news—which speaks to how in-the-moment the service-industry wage issue is.
But if there's one thing that customers hate more than tipping, it's when their coffee isn't as cheap as they think it should be. "We do have a lot of people coming through who look up at the menu, and they kind of just turn around and walk away, and I can only assume that they're like, 'Wow, these prices are high,'" says Price.
At Three Pines, however, the price of a drink includes what it takes to raise employees' minimum wage to $18 an hour.
Comparing a latte at his shop to what it may cost elsewhere, he points out, "I bet once you get rung up and sales tax is added, and then a tip is asked for, and you're tipping 50 cents or a dollar—I bet we're the same. Yeah, even a little bit cheaper," Price muses.
Price maintains that he thinks no-tip should be the future—for coffee, anyway. "I feel like it's wrong of most cafes and businesses to put the burden onto the customer of covering the wages of the employees," he says. "Most" is the key word here.
The Rose Establishment (235 S. 400 West, SLC, 801-208-5569, theroseestb.com) is more café than coffee shop, with a full dine-in menu. Because of this, they didn't integrate the cost of higher wages into their prices. Instead, there's an 18% service charge at check-out, and an option to tip between 1% and 3%. Syme and O'Brien set it up this way to avoid the kind of "sticker shock" effect that has since higher prices may have made people walk out of Three Pines.
After reopening in 2021 with this model, The Rose did initially lose some servers who missed their rush-time tip bounties. But the servers who like it, they say, stay. Syme and O'Brien are passionate about their model, but like Price, acknowledge that it may not be as realistic for bars or high-volume restaurants, where a higher wage could never match the enormity of a good tip night.
Felt, a new fine dining-cocktail bar on Main Street downtown (341 S. Main, SLC, feltslc.com), is both raising the bar and its server wages. Owners Rich Romney (formerly of Takashi) and Travis Herbert (who has opened Fleming's restaurants globally) opened this Japanese-American restaurant with the goal of creating an environment where servers and bartenders could thrive, learn and grow in the industry.
Over the past 30 years in Salt Lake City and beyond, both owners have washed dishes, bussed tables, bartended, served, managed or cooked on the line. They know an essential ingredient to running a restaurant efficiently is contented, and therefore reliable, staff.
"We've seen so many places that build it up, build it up, build it up. And then you go in, and it's a big disappointment," Romney says, referring to Felt's intentionally quiet opening. "We definitely wanted to avoid that, and with our staff in mind, we don't want to have them just get overwhelmed."
When it comes to the no-tip concept, Romney notes that he's seen other restaurants "paying their servers or bartenders a better wage, you know, $20 an hour or something like that—but, for example, for the servers of Takashi, $20 an hour doesn't even touch what they're actually making in tips."
That doesn't mean there isn't room for restaurants like Felt to shuffle things around, though. "As a server or bartender who worked just for tips, if you aren't careful, all of a sudden, tax time hits and you owe $5,000, $6,000, $7,000 that you didn't save up for," Romney says. So, Felt's servers make $5 an hour, and the bartenders between $5 and $10, instead of $2.13, Utah's standard. As Romney points out, "It's still mostly going to taxes, but it covers a lot more."
A small contribution it may seem, but for anyone who has worked for tips, it means something. It also inspires the question: If a brand-new restaurant can make such adjustments to a fledgling budget, what's to stop any other business from taking a hard look at their own numbers, and seeing where there's room to grow?
Dining Guide 2024: Burgers Worth a Splurge
These variations on a classic are worth every penny.
By Aimee L. Cook
The all-American burger: a symphony of savory perfection between two buns. But with countless variations on this classic theme, how do you know where to find the best bite? I receive many requests for where to eat the best burger—it might even be an obsession of mine. I have been on this delicious quest across the city, sinking my teeth into juicy patties, melted cheeses and creative toppings. From fine dining establishments to old-school burger shacks, prepare to have your burger cravings satisfied.
Copper Onion (111 E. 300 South, SLC, 801-355-3282, thecopperonion.com): Since chef/owner Ryan Lowder opened his doors in 2010, the Copper Onion burger ($18) has been a staple on the menu. Created by Lowder himself, the burger is a delicious combination of flavors and textures. It's not overly complicated, just really good.
"It's simple, straightforward and not pretentious," Lowder said. "You have to start with good meat and a quality bun. Red wine-cooked onions provide the acid pop, cheddar is a burger's best friend and iceberg is what every burger should have. I hate fancy burgers. That was kept in mind from A to Z."
What's between the bun? Grass-fed beef, caramelized onion, duck fat aioli. Add cheddar ($1) and bacon ($3), because you can. Or live dangerously and order the Heart Stopper Burger shown above.
Franck's Restaurant (6263 E. Holladay Blvd., Holladay, 801-274-6264, francksfood.com): Chef Rob Perkins has been creating unique hamburgers as a Thursday Burger Special since 2017. Coming up with different flavor profiles every week may seem like a daunting task, but Perkins knocks it out of the park. Watch for the burger that started it all to hit the menu—the Root Beer Float Burger ($25)—and always make a reservation to reserve your burger, as he makes limited quantities.
"I'm generally not a dessert person, but I'll never turn down a root beer float," said Perkins. "One day, I was braising beef cheek in root beer for our tasting menu. I decided to make a garlic-vanilla bean aioli to compliment the cheek. As soon as I tasted it, I got chills because it took me back to my childhood. When I decided to start doing a super unique burger each week, I said 'we're going to start this thing off with a bang.' ... It quickly became a favorite and is requested often. I do the Root Beer Float Burger once per year; it's the only burger I've done more than once."
What's between the bun? You'll find wagyu sirloin burger, root beer braised shallot, Gruyere cheese, vanilla-glazed chicken skin, tarragon zucchini pickles, raw sweet onion and vanilla garlic mayo.
Salt City Burger Co. (9176 Village Shop Drive, Sandy, 801-495-4111, saltcityburgerco.com): It was born from the creative minds of Denice and Mike Osterloh (1963-2021), a spark of nostalgia combined with a modern twist. Mike cherished childhood memories of savoring thick, delectable chocolate malts at Snelgrove's. His father's own establishment— Fred's Burger Chalet, founded in 1960 in the heart of Sugar House—further fueled his passion for irresistible flavors. With the closures of these cherished spots, the Osterlohs hoped to recapture the magic. They envisioned a haven where one could indulge in both delicious, quality burgers and rich, creamy shakes. Thus, Salt City Burger Co. came to life.
At Salt City Burger Co., you become the maestro of your meal. With an array of toppings, you can craft the burger (classic burger at $9.79) of your dreams, down to the last detail. And, to make the experience more delightful, every burger is accompanied by unlimited fries.
"We could never find a place that satisfied our craving, so we decided to open our own burger place with Fred's Burger Chalet's original grill and made malts the old-fashioned way," said Denice. "We improved Fred's burger by grinding our meat in-house to give the customers the freshest burger possible."
What's between the bun? Freshly ground beef (or chicken) and all the toppings you can fit your mouth around.
Patty Shack (1207 W. 4800 South, Taylorsville, 385-474-6167, pattyshack.com): Forget fancy frills and gourmet gimmicks. At Patty Shack, burgers are an art form mastered on a well-seasoned flat top. Although they serve several variations, the Patty Daddy ($16) will get the job done.
"When we came up with it, we were thinking about doing some kind of a signature burger," said Justin Newbold, owner. "We were bouncing around names and my teenage son, Ayden, said you should name it the Patty Daddy. It was catchy, so we went with that."
What's between the bun? Three beef patties, three slices of melted American cheese, bacon, grilled pastrami and your choice of toppings, all piled high.
Glitretind at Stein Eriksen Lodge (7700 Stein Way, Park City, 435-645-6455, steinlodge.com): Mountain scenery and crisp air bring out the best in a burger. Whether it's a patty sizzling on a grill at a summer cookout or a steaming masterpiece savored in a cozy Alpenglobe after a winter adventure, few things satisfy more than a juicy burger. But to add a touch of magic courtesy of the breathtaking alpine scenery, head to Stein Eriksen Lodge and sink your teeth into a Stein's Burger ($26). "A great burger does not need a lot of ingredients—just key components done well," said Zane Holmquist, corporate chef. "It's been a classic at Stein's for 24 years, and I think this is because of its simplicity and its quality ingredients."
What's between the bun? You'll find a hefty half pound of Black Angus top round beef, aged white cheddar cheese and crispy fried onions.
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Vegan Innovations
Skill, experiments and patience result in plant-based alternatives to great comfort foods.
By Amanda Rock
From Buddhist monks creating mock meats centuries ago to the plethora of meat and dairy analogs lining grocery store shelves today, vegans have a rich history of ingenious eats. Plant-based restaurants and bakeries are becoming increasingly popular in Salt Lake City, and they all deserve recognition for their innovative dishes.
Since I couldn't take over the Dining Issue entirely with my passion for vegan food, I've narrowed it down to include one business from each major food group: meatless meats, fancy vegan cheese and chocolate.
Vegan Daddy Meats
If you're craving a Classic Beef 'n Cheddar sandwich, but don't want to eat a cow, this is your kind of place. Vegan Daddy is all about re-creating omnivorous comfort food, "without the animal cruelty, impact on personal health and environmental destruction," says chef and owner Adam Diener.
Nostalgic for the foods he missed after becoming vegan, Diener started experimenting with seitan (a meat substitute made from wheat gluten) when he was 15. "It took a lot of trial and error for each of my recipes," he says. "I've always loved cooking, and there are so many possibilities when working with wheat gluten."
After perfecting his vegan meats, Salt Lake City's vegan butcher set up shop serving meatless versions of wings, meaty sandwiches and killer sides. Try the Varby's Beaf and Cheddar sandwich, for example, where thinly sliced "beaf" is doused with house-made vegan cheese sauce and served on a fresh onion roll. Delicious! Stop by Vegan Daddy to scratch that comfort food itch, and pick up some vegan meats to enjoy at home.
569 N. 300 West, K102, Salt Lake City
385-315-2177
vegandaddymeats.com
Seasons Plant-Based Kitchen
If you haven't tried Seasons Plant-Based Kitchen's dairy-free cheeses, you're in for a treat. Sharp and tangy, their spreadable cheeses are an impressive addition to a charcuterie board and just as delicious scooped up with Triscuits standing in front of the fridge. Choose from Fromage Blanc, Cheddar, Provolone and Mozzarella.
"Giving up cheese can be, for many, the hardest thing to move away from when transitioning to a plant-based lifestyle," admits James MacDonald, owner and chef at Seasons Plant-Based Kitchen. "We noticed a gap in the market for premium vegan cheese. With all the knowledge and experience I have gained over the years in the kitchen, I wanted to provide a product that closed that gap."
Developing a premium vegan cheese is no small feat. The secret is fermentation to give the cheese the bite and umami lacking in other plant-based cheeses. MacDonald says there was plenty of research (and failure), but his hard work paid off.
Taste it for yourself; they ship their cheese nationwide. If you're local, you have to check out their restaurant. Order the Cheese Tasting featuring Provolone and Almond-Herb rolled Fromage Blanc served with crostini. There are plenty of other dairy-free dishes on their menu worth trying, too. Seasons Plant-Based Kitchen also serves pizza, pasta and dessert.
916 S. Jefferson St. No. B, Salt Lake City
385-267-1922
seasonsslc.com
Unicorn Chocolates
Unicorn Chocolates are a treat for the senses. Each distinctly flavored chocolate is a piece of art that tastes as good as it looks. "When someone opens a box of Unicorn Chocolates, we want the colorful designs to elicit a huge smile, and the thought that they're just too beautiful to eat," says Gregory Neil, who owns the business along with his wife, Judy.
When the couple started making chocolates for holiday gifts, their friends saw a business opportunity. And so did they. Artisan vegan chocolates were hard to find in Salt Lake City. They got to work veganizing family recipes and taking classes to learn artisanal decorating techniques. Their daughter, meanwhile, got to work designing their cute, colorful unicorn logo.
"Flavor is the most important element for us," says Gregory. "Judy is a big foodie, and comes up with the bulk of the ideas." Mango Sticky Rice, Strawberry Prickly Pear and Tamarind Black Sesame are a few examples of the unique flavors offered by Unicorn Chocolates. This layering of flavors will blow your mind. "We currently mix and match with pâte de fruit, gianduja (a mixture of chocolate and hazelnut paste) and fondant fillings," says Gregory.
As for the ingredients, only the finest will do. "Using the very best chocolate has always been a priority. We've been using local award-winning bean-to-bar manufacturers like Ritual and Solstice."
Unicorn Chocolates ships nationwide. You can also pick up website orders from their Holladay home, or venture out to Sweet Hazel & Co. (282 W. 7200 South, Midvale, see p. 24).
unicornchocolates.com
The Sweet Vegan Bliss of Sweet Hazel
By Lily Springer
As someone who grew up totally vegan for the first decade of my life, I've loved seeing the explosion of veg-friendly options available in Utah Valley in recent years. Sweet Hazel & Co. (282 W. 7200 South, Midvale, 801-889-1466, sweethazelandco.com) has become a staple since my wife and I came across its original incarnation as a 100% plant-based candy shop, and doubly so since Chef Fee reopened Sweet Hazel as a full bakeshop and bistro in 2022.
In spite of the fact that I've long since lost count of the number of times I've visited Sweet Hazel, it's one of those golden locations where I can say not one visit or menu item has ever been a miss. I don't know exactly what vegan sorcery goes on behind the scenes in their kitchens, but they've gotten down to a science the art of crafting hearty, filling vegan comfort food without any of the textures or aftertastes that proclaim the lack of animal products on the ingredient list a little too loudly.
The bistro menu features an array of breakfast, brunch and lunch options reminiscent of comforting local diners. My current personal favorite is the Ranch Chick'n Sandwich ($16), featuring a crispy "chick'n" patty with lettuce and tomato on a buttery toasted bun. The sandwich is elevated by a generous dollop of thick house-made ranch dressing and slices of Umaro bacon (made from red seaweed!), adding a salty, fatty, crunchy perfection that would convince even the most contrarian carnivore.
Perhaps most astonishing, however, is the array of entirely plant-based sweets Sweet Hazel proffers. From candy bars to cinnamon rolls, the vegan sweet tooth is loved and cared for here. However, the mini cakes, hovering around the $8 range, are on another level. With a wide array of flavors ranging from lemon raspberry to chai tres leches, these mini cakes more than hold their own against, and sometimes even outshine, full-dairy desserts. The cakes are moist and delicate with a pronounced crumb texture, and topped with a whipped cream that I find indistinguishable from the real thing. There's no overpowering coconut flavor or odd oily aftertaste—just pure, creamy vegan bliss.
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Dining Guide 2024: Beyond the Booze
The art of mixology, where creativity and culinary brilliance collide.
By Aimee L. Cook
In dimly lit lounges and bustling bars around the globe, skilled mixologists are elevating the drinking experience to an art form. With a shaker in hand and an arsenal of ingredients, these drink artists are pushing the boundaries of traditional cocktails and presenting an exquisite fusion of flavors, aesthetics and methods.
The art of mixology is much more than just mixing spirits and garnishes. It is a meticulous craft blending creativity, taste, appearance and culinary technique to create an experience that delights all the senses.
The intersection of mixology and culinary art is perhaps most evident in the modern-day emphasis on gastronomy in cocktail-making. Kyle Maxfield (IG: @kyle_maxfield) at The Pearl Bar & Kitchen (917 S. 200 West, SLC) focuses on integrating the kitchen using sous vide, immersion blenders and more to capture and extract flavors and introduce multi-sensory drinking elements beyond taste and sight.
"The more I tried things [after turning 21], the more I wanted to. Everything tasted different," Maxfield said. "I spent five years making cocktails at home, educating myself and sharing with friends. In 2022, I took a job in a bar downtown and realized I loved it. I like to flip cocktails on their heads, inspire drinks from different regions and take an original cocktail and try it with different ingredients."
What to try? Maxfield's variation of a daiquiri, which uses makrut lime syrup, Luxardo (to add floral notes) and a rosé float.
Mixology demands a delicate balance between innovation and respect for traditional recipes. Mixologists like Seth Carraway at Wood * Ash * Rye (25 W. St. George Blvd., St. George, 435-522-5020, theadvenirehotel.com/wood-ash-rye-restaurant) experiment with an expansive palette of ingredients, using exotic herbs and bespoke spirits to craft a narrative in every glass served.
"I started as a bartender back, and slowly made drinks when things were slow. Shortly after, they gave me one night a week as a bartender, and I worked my way up to head bartender/mixologist," Carraway says.
"I think presentation is the No. 1 thing that will set a great cocktail apart," Carraway says. "You can have a drink that tastes good, but people might not want to drink it if it looks boring or dull. If you make a drink that looks appealing, people will be more enthusiastic about trying it, and it will elevate their expectations."
What to try? The W.A.R. Valley Tan, with High West Rendezvous Rye, Alpine Traveler's Rest Malt Whiskey, juniper ash honey syrup, black lemon bitters and cedar smoke.
At the heart of cocktail innovation at Handle (136 Heber Ave., Park City, 435-602-1155, handleparkcity.com) is award-winning mixologist and beverage director Reagan Chung (IG @rd_craft_cocktails), who has redefined traditional mixology boundaries. Known for his inventive use of unconventional ingredients, Chung states, "I like working with customers and having people enjoy my drinks. A cocktail can have all the craziest techniques and ingredients, but if it doesn't taste good, that is all wasted."
His winning cocktail, the "Gin," incorporates rhubarb-honey syrup and olive oil, creating a sensory experience that is bold and ephemeral. This creation highlights his skill in balancing flavors and showcases his commitment to pushing the envelope in cocktail craftsmanship. "I like to make cocktails with at least a couple ingredients that people are familiar with and can understand and then a few that are really unique," Chung added. "That will help ease people into the things you want to showcase."
For a restaurant and bar in a hotel, the Laurel Brasserie (Grand America, 55 S. Main, 801-258-6708, laurelslc.com) has quickly become a destination for locals. An approachable food menu gives way to an approachable beverage program led by mixologist Bojan Filipovic (@bojanfilipovic023). His philosophy puts taste at the pinnacle. Combining sweet, sour, bitter and salty in perfect harmony is a skill that mixologists refine over countless hours behind the bar. Engaging all elements of taste ensures a complex and memorable drinking experience, where the initial sip is as exciting as the last.
"I like using fresh fruits," Filipovic said. "The tartness and sugar from the fruit, combined with liquors and squeezed citrus and base spirits and herbs, add an extra level of freshness. I usually have seven to ten ingredients in my cocktails, so they are very complex. They create an explosion of flavors in your mouth."
What to try? The Boujee Spritz created with Grey Goose vodka, Chambord liqueur, fresh blueberries, raspberries, freshly squeezed lime juice, organic agave, cranberry juice, mint leaves, and François Montand French sparkling wine.
Seth Adams always wanted to have a bar in his Park City restaurant, Riverhorse, so when the space below the restaurant that is now Palomino (540 Main St., Ste. B, Park City, 435-649-3536, palominoparkcity.com) became available, they snagged it. Adams' vision was for an upscale cocktail bar serving culinary forward drinks, champagnes and wine; he calls it "the adult bar." Fresh juices are made daily; house-made buffalo jerky serves as a garnish for Adams' favorite drink, the Seamstress. Adams and his crew come up with cocktail ideas, and everyone tries them and weighs in. Presentation is just as important as taste. "This is more of a team effort," Adams said. "At Riverhorse, we are an extended family. Everyone's opinion matters."
What to try? The Steamstress: Alpine gin, fresh heirloom tomato juice, St. Germain, fire bitters, peppercorn and house-made buffalo jerky.
Spirit Education by Jim Santangelo
Mixing Drinks | Cocktails & Techniques
Jim Santangelo—spirits educator, connoisseur in the world of mixology and founder of the Wine Academy of Utah (IG: @wineacademyofut)—has devoted years to studying and teaching the intricacies of spirits, their histories and how they can be harmoniously combined to create groundbreaking cocktails. His educational programs have illuminated the paths for aspiring mixologists, emphasizing the technical aspects of cocktail creation and the passion and artistry underpinning the profession. Through his workshops and classes, Santangelo inspires a new generation to view mixology not just as a job but as a creative and fulfilling career.
"I inherited the beverage program [in 2010] while working in a restaurant as a sommelier," said Santangelo. "I realized then that cocktails and whiskeys were becoming more popular in handcrafted drinks. I brought my knowledge and appreciation of wine regions and different flavor profiles into the bar. A strong drink doesn't make it a good drink; balance makes it a good drink."
His 90-minute presentation titled "Mixing Drinks" demystifies the art of making a balanced drink. It covers a review of primary spirits, techniques for crafting cocktails, an overview of bar equipment and plenty of tasting! This session aims to equip participants with the knowledge and skills to elevate their mixology prowess. Register at wineacademyofutah.com.