In commemoration of City Weekly's 40th anniversary, we are digging into our archives to celebrate. Each week, we FLASHBACK to a story or column from our past in honor of four decades of local alt-journalism. Whether the names and issues are familiar or new, we are grateful to have this unique newspaper to contain them all.
Title: No Foo-Foo, Just Egg Foo
Author: Deborah Lewis
Date: April 30, 1992
Pagoda
26 N. "E" Street
SLC, 355-8155
My first encounter with the Pagoda was a Sunday night several years ago. I had been helping a student, it was late at night, and I was starving. Without batting an eye, my studious friend picked up the telephone and ordered the "family style combination" for two, with an extra order of Teriyaki spareribs. Shortly thereafter, we were dining on enormous portions of Chinese "takeout"—comfort foods I had long given up finding in Salt Lake City.
Coming from Chicago, folks are used to finding Chinese restaurants within fairly reasonable spaces. However, living in Utah, one exchanges city pleasures for those of a different nature. Nevertheless, I soon became hooked on the Pagoda.
OK, there is nothing trendy about this particular dining establishment; in fact, after entering the large foyer and ascending a wide flight of steps, it's actually old-fashioned, right down to its red interior, Japanese lanterns, durable bottles of soy sauce on every table, and polite servers (many of whom have been with the establishment for more than 30 years). It is so down-home and comfortable that after visiting a time or two, patrons are treated like old friends and just waved to their favorite tables. We prefer to sit near the kitchen; however, since the large family tables are also there, the din does become a bit overwhelming at times.
It is pleasant to know that after ordering from the menu, diners actually receive the food that they request and none of the dishes contain those hideous, starchy green peas that are so eminently popular in most other local Asian restaurants.
The Family Style Combination is probably the most popular item on the menu, and consists of pork chow mein, egg foo yong, fried rice, chicken ma-ha-kaio (ask your server about this dish), sweet and sour spareribs, jumbo fried shrimp (one per individual), fortune cookies and very good green tea, which is continuously replenished. The combination plate is a bit overwhelming for us, so we generally order the egg foo yong (three large patties, sauced and topped with green onions), shrimp fried rice, and the special barbecued Teriyaki spareribs (ten ribs basted to perfection and served with a sprinkling of sesame seeds and a dipping sauce of hot mustard).
The Pagoda also serves several types of noodle dishes, with pork and mushroom being big favorites. Naturally, as befits a 1940s Asian restaurant, there are several chop suey dishes, including beef, green pepper and chicken. Sukiyakis and tempuras also are prominent on the menu.
As mentioned earlier, there are no surprises, but the food is plentiful, hot, and cooked to order. What more can diners ask for when they have a longing for comfort food?
Note: Except for Monday, the Pagoda is open until midnight every night.
