One Fish, Two Fish | Wine | Salt Lake City | Salt Lake City Weekly
We need your help.

Newspapers and media companies nationwide are closing or suffering mass layoffs since the coronavirus impacted all of us starting in March. City Weekly's entire existence is directly tied to people getting together in groups--in clubs, restaurants, and at concerts and events--which are the industries most affected by new coronavirus regulations.

Our industry is not healthy. Yet, City Weekly has continued publishing thanks to the generosity of readers like you. Utah needs independent journalism more than ever, and we're asking for your continued support of our editorial voice. We are fighting for you and all the people and businesses hardest hit by this pandemic.

You can help by making a one-time or recurring donation on PressBackers.com, which directs you to our Galena Fund 501(c)(3) non-profit, a resource dedicated to help fund local journalism. It is never too late. It is never too little. Thank you. DONATE

Eat & Drink » Wine

One Fish, Two Fish

by

comment
art6806widea.jpg

What recession? On Wednesday nights, Lug%uFFFDno Restaurant is packed to the gills. I’m willing to bet most diners go for chef Greg Neville’s “wood-oven Wednesday” specials, including $9 baked pastas, pizza and regional wine flights. And well they should. But we went for the whole fish. Another Wednesday special offered two ways, Neville’s whole fish makes generous entree for two at $27.95.

Oddly, outside of Asian restaurants, a whole fish is a rare offering in these parts—and that’s a shame. Cooking the fish whole not only seals in moisture, it also coaxes every nuance of flavor out of the bones, upping the “succulence” factor considerably.

Plump and rosy, head and tail intact, Neville’s roasted Thai Snapper (technically a sea bream) starts in a grill pan and finishes off in the 600-degree wood-fired oven that is the heart and soul of Lug%uFFFDno. Ligurian style, he slicks the fish with olive oil and tarts it up with fresh lemons, rosemary, thyme, garlic and tangy green olives. A few thick sliced potatoes on the side soak up all the good juices.

Livornese style, the fish takes on a lustier personality as white wine mingles with tomatoes, capers, garlic, oregano and dark, intensely rich olives.

Either way, when it arrives at the table, it’s a kick to slice the tail off and lift the big spine right out. (And don’t forget to dip your fork into the fish cheeks for a bite of that silky flesh.) If you’re not into filleting, never fear. Servers are happy to oblige.

Neville plans to keep “Wood Oven Wednesdays” going with seasonal variations. So if you’re fishing for a bargain that tastes like a trip to Italy, book it now. Reservations essential.

Virginia Rainey comments@cityweekly.net

LUGANO RESTAURANT
3364 S. 2300 East 801-412-9994
luganorestaurant.com