Restaurant Review: Gourmet Pizza and Sandwiches at The Bambino | Restaurant Reviews | Salt Lake City Weekly
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Restaurant Review: Gourmet Pizza and Sandwiches at The Bambino

Midvale's new pizza spot pays homage to a classic piece of local cinema.

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A slice of cheesy goodness from The Bambino - ALEX SPRINGER
  • Alex Springer
  • A slice of cheesy goodness from The Bambino

If you're a millennial who came of age in Utah, then there's a good chance The Sandlot is somewhere in your cinematic schema. Whether it was a film you watched over and over with your siblings or simply the origin of all your friends' best trash-talk zingers, it was arguably the Napoleon Dynamite of the early '90s. One of the reasons The Sandlot has a special place in our hearts is because a lot of it was filmed in Midvale, a fact that hasn't been lost on The Bambino, Main Street's new pizza parlor. If this is your first time hearing about this wood-fired pizza joint, I only have one thing to say: You're killin' me, Smalls.

The restaurant's name is pulled from the admiration the film's scrappy protagonists have toward Babe Ruth, whom they call the Great Bambino. It's a clever way to combine an Italian name with Midvale's film history, which is a stylistic theme that the restaurant carries throughout its entire aesthetic. The interior space is decorated with vintage photos of historic Midvale along with plenty of Sandlot swag. As charming as the space is, you can't help but be distracted by the gorgeous, white-tiled pizza oven behind the counter.

As if that ponderous oven wasn't a dead giveaway, wood-fired pizza is the name of the game at The Bambino. A lot of the pies take their names from Sandlot characters–for example, The Wendy ($20) is a sweet and spicy combo of smooth burrata and the smoky, spreadable sausage known as 'nduja. I talked a bit with co-owner David Gardiner about the menu's nods to The Sandlot, and he hinted at a secret menu with pies inspired by each of the film's characters.

For my purposes, I was dead set on The Spud ($18). Ever since I tried the New Haven from the now-defunct Nuch's–may it rest in peace–I have grown fond of a potato pizza, and The Spud is exactly that. Instead of sauce, it's topped with smashed new potatoes, a four-cheese blend, crispy pancetta and some shallots.

It's a fantastic pizza with its foundation firmly built around the crust. It's a textbook thin-crust affair, though it holds up well to the selection of toppings. It's got a nice flavor, too–just a hint of yeast with a lovely char from the wood oven. The flavor combos on The Spud work very well together, though I did find myself wanting a bit more potato. I loved the pancetta and shallots, however. It's a great pizza for those times when you're craving something a bit unconventional.

Of course you can't really go wrong with getting pizza at The Bambino, but I'd also encourage lunchtime visitors to check out the restaurant's list of portafoglio sandwiches. They also make good use of The Bambino's signature wood-fired pizza dough, which is folded and then stuffed with tasty sandwich fillings.

I went with Gardiner's recommendation and ordered the Mortazza because mortadella and I have been having a moment lately. In addition to the thinly sliced Italian deli meat, this sando is smeared with lemon nutmeg ricotta, crushed pistachios, plenty of arugula and shallots. I always like making a new addition to my sandwich repertoire, and this is definitely one for the books.

The mortadella is just right and it perfectly grounds the sandwich. From there, the lemon nutmeg ricotta is absolutely divine–I would put this on every sandwich if I could. The ricotta's creamy texture works beautifully with the mortadella and arugula, and it's got just enough acid from the lemon to contrast with the meat's salty richness. The pistachios definitely put things over the top–the crunchy texture played against the smooth ricotta, and the subtle flavors really ramp up the lemon and nutmeg.

For dessert, it's easy to skip over to Setties, a small bakery and ice cream shop that shares its space with The Bambino–I'd highly recommend that you do. Setties offers specialty paletas ($4) which are like house-made popsicles, but its secret weapon is the macaron ice cream sandwiches ($9). I tried the lemon curd, which was a perfect way to end my meal of rich and savory flavors. The ice cream wasn't overly sweet, but it did have the right amount of lemony tartness to punctuate my meal in just the right way.

Not only does The Bambino pay homage to a classic piece of local cinema, but it's doing so in a very adorable and accessible way. The space is gorgeous, and it's given me a new respect for Midvale's historic Main Street. I walked around for a bit to let my food digest, and I was struck with the fact that it felt like the type of Main Street you'd encounter in Cedar City or Torrey. Whether you're coming to check out a local show at The Pearl or just in the mood for some excellent pizza, The Bambino has you covered.