• Alex Springer

For some reason, the desire to check in with our local barbecue scene always hits me come winter. Maybe it's the cold weather that prompts me to get some food that sticks to my bones, in which case I'm glad our barbecue scene has stayed fresh and diverse for several years now.

There's also that comfort of knowing pretty much what to expect when hitting up a new barbecue joint—in this case, I'm talking about Meat Hook BBQ Co. (3380 S. Redwood Road, 801-938-3773, meathookbbqco.com). It's a hotshot outfit out in West Valley that looks to add a new dimension to local fast-casual barbecue, which is a market that has been dominated by R&R Barbeque since its major proliferation a few years back.

It might seem like a big risk to dive into a market that has such a heavy hitter at the plate, but Meat Hook is doing some interesting things to set itself apart. Price-wise, it's comparable to most other barbecue spots in town; you can get combo plates of one, two or three proteins that range from $16.99 to $18.99, along with a half-rack of baby back ribs for $19.99. The meat combos are a perfectly serviceable place to hang out during your visit—the Meat Hook team knows their way around a smoker, and their ribs and pulled pork are always juicy and delicious.

With the foundational barbecue menu established and populated with familiar favorites done well, Meat Hook takes a few left turns on its menu that I think really pay off. First off, Meat Hook offers a pretty decent cocktail and beer menu that features bangers like the Smoky Margarita ($10.50) that blends Wahaka mezcal, Cointreau, simple syrup and lime juice and serves it all up in glass rimmed with applewood smoked salt. Though our local barbecue options offer plenty of variety, there aren't many spots that serve up barbecue and craft cocktails, so that's enough to raise an eyebrow or two.

The other unexpectedly awesome aspect of the menu comes from their barbecue-inspired sandwiches, burgers and tacos. I remember when I heard of Meat Hook first opening, I saw that they were serving a sandwich called the BLFGT ($10.99) which is a bacon, lettuce and fried green tomato sandwich. The idea of such brilliance stuck with me, and I am happy to say that it is every bit as satisfying as it sounds. As it's a barbecue joint, the bacon is thick, flavorful and cooked to perfection. Then you add some leaves of crunchy romaine lettuce, crispy fried green tomatoes and a whole lot of mayo between two buttery slabs of Texas toast, and you've got one of the finest sandwiches to ever grace my plate.

Meat Hook is also trying its hand at the popular notion of birria tacos ($12.99) with consommé, and they add their freshly-smoked beef brisket to the toasty, cheesy goodness of these delightful tacos. It's definitely a smart match, considering slow-cooked beef is the key to good birria tacos, though my order's brisket was a bit on the dry side when it arrived. It happens from time to time, and I know enough about their barbecue game to understand that when the brisket is on point, these are some tasty tacos—cheesy, crispy and full of great smoked brisket flavor.

I think I've made it pretty clear that my affection toward barbecue places increases significantly if they've got smoked sausage on the menu, and Meat Hook happily obliges. Not only can you get it in their barbecue combos, but they have a burger called the The Hookup ($14.99) that adorns its burger patty with a pile of smoked Andouille sausage. This meaty burger then gets topped with melted Monterey Jack cheese, a dollop of their Sweet and Sassy barbecue sauce, and a big scoop of coleslaw. I've always been fond of the sweet and savory punch that smoked sausage and coleslaw imparts, so it's nice to see that the Meat Hook team shares my adoration for a heaping pile of sausage mixed with another heaping pile of coleslaw. Brisket fans will want to go with The Meatup ($16.99) that swaps the sausage out for sliced brisket.

Like any good barbecue spot, Meat Hook rounds out its menu of classics with a supporting roster of sides and desserts. I was a fan of the barbecue bacon baked beans ($4.99) and the cornbread mini muffins ($3.99); you can also get a side of those tasty fried green tomatoes ($4.99) if you aren't snagging the BLFGT. For dessert, the key lime pie ($4.99) is the clear winner, but the Southern Comfort Mini Bundt ($6.99) and the banana pudding ($4.99) are solid offerings for those wanting to end things on a sweet note.

Overall, Meat Hook BBQ Co. has plenty of great things going for it. It's familiar enough for longtime barbecue fans to appreciate, but it also has plenty of unique flair to help it forge its own path. If you're in the West Valley area and craving some tasty barbecue, Meat Hook is doing some great things.