When it opened a little more than a decade ago, Stoneground was a revelation to me. It was comfortable enough for beers with the dudes, but nice enough for a night out with the lady. Giant mugs of beer or a drinkable bottle of red were far more affordable than they had any business being. I recall having one of the best chicken sandwiches I’ve ever had, sadly now long gone from the menu. So it’s strange that, until recently, I hadn’t set foot in the place for years.
Food is getting better in this town all the time. The past few years have seen the opening of some of Salt Lake City’s best and hottest restaurants. Downtown destinations and neighborhood joints alike, there are more and better options for a full and happy tummy than ever before.
However, that’s no reason to ignore the tried and true. My recent re-discovery of Stoneground has reminded me that it’s good for way more than all-you-can-eat pizza on a Sunday night.
The seared pork tenderloin—served over crispy polenta with a cranberry pan sauce—has held its place on the menu for years, and for good reason. A new (at least to me) addition of cassoulet topped with pork belly satisfied all of my autumn salty, mouth-melty-fat desires, as well. The meatballs in my dining companion’s spaghetti were just like grandma would have made, if grandma’s name had more vowels. The kicker is that these items are a steal in the $15 range, including a salad.
The restaurant business is as much about fashion as it is about quality. Plenty of simply good places enjoy a moment of greatness, not necessarily because they deserve it, but because the right people say so. In food, more than anything, you should go with your gut—and my gut wants Stoneground back in my regular rotation.
249 E. 400 South