Eric DeBonis' Sea Salt restaurant is now open for lunch and dinner, right across the street from the now-shuttered Emigration Market. If Eric's name sounds familiar, you might know him as owner of The Paris Bistro and Zinc Bar. --- Sea Salt is a beautiful, but casual space -- open and airy with wide swatches of white everywhere. Clean is the adjective that comes to mind. The semi-communal tables are a nice touch.

The Sea Salt menu is extensive, with many dishes based on DeBonis' Italian grandmother's recipes. The meatballs and ravioli, for example, carry the name "Nonna Maria." 

I'm very fussy about Margherita pizzas and this one is killer -- a new Margherita player in town. There are two versions of the Margherita at Sea Salt: The more economical ($9.95) features San Marzano tomatoes, fresh basil, extra virgin olive oil and fior di latte cheese made from cow's milk. The high-end Napoletana Margherita D.O.P. ($14.95) is the same as the regular pizza except it's made with fresh buffalo mozzarella, and it is terrific.

Sea Salt is located at 1709 E. 1300 South. Phone 801-349-1480 for reservations. Closed Sundays.