
- Alex Springer
Though it's been a pretty mild June, those scorching July days are just around the corner. Tempting though it may sound, one cannot simply live on snowcones and ice cream once the thermostat starts hitting the high 90s. Summer is all about finding a wide range of cool and refreshing goodies.
It used to be tricky to find a menu that would fit that bill, but thanks to our ever-evolving food scene, we're fortunate enough to have places like La Cevicheria in our back yard. It's not the first local restaurant to offer ceviche—freshly sliced salmon, tuna, shrimp or even octopus marinated in citrusy lime juice—but it just might be the most adorable.
It's in a cozy little space kitty-corner to the Gallivan Center, and it's instantly recognizable from the trippy blue octopus tentacles painted on the brick outside. At the moment, the construction on 200 South has made parking a bit of a drag for visitors, but with all this warm weather coming our way, there's no harm in parking at Gallivan and taking a quick jaunt over.
On the inside, La Cevicheria has been borrowing liberally from the cute, Instagram-friendly design choices that have been successful elsewhere. Hot pink neon signs that tell you how good you look, set against artificial greenery walls, are all ready for your ceviche selfies. On top of that, La Cevicheria includes plenty of oceanic decor, including the cute little octopus sculpture that holds each table's menu. It's packed with fun, summery vibes that are perfect for the season.
When dining here, you should definitely consider their signature ceviches; it would be silly to visit a cevicheria without doing so. They have plenty of different takes on this traditional dish, including a vegetarian option ($18.99) made with cooked cauliflower, but their Ceviche La Cevicheria ($21.99) is their house special. This refreshing flavor cocktail is made with salmon and tuna that have been marinated in lime juice along with chopped onions, tomatoes and cilantro.
Good ceviche lets the ingredients speak for themselves, and that's what you're having at La Cevicheria. Even though we're in a landlocked desert, the fresh fish—dressed up with citrusy lime flavor and crunchy aromatic veggies—really pops. It's served in a showstopping lava rock bowl along with some homemade tortilla rounds and sliced cucumber that can be used to scoop all that deliciousness up into one perfect bite. Those who prefer shrimp or octopus as their seafood of choice have plenty of options, but the Ceviche La Cevicheria is top-notch for first-time visitors.
Those who maybe aren't ready or willing to ride the ceviche train just yet can also find plenty of traditional beachy dishes to dig into. I liked their Baja fish tacos ($18.99) quite a bit. They come in a trio, and were exactly what I wanted out of a fish taco: a good portion of fried fish, topped with plenty of crunchy purple cabbage and some creamy chipotle dressing. A nice squeeze of lime, a dollop of their smoky salsa verde and a cold cerveza takes you right to the coast. On top of their fresh seafood tacos—you can get marlin, octopus and shrimp if you so choose—La Cevicheria does some decent street tacos ($3.99) as well.
It's easy to hang in the ceviche and taco side of the menu at La Cevicheria, but don't overlook the chef's specialties. This spot on the menu is where you can find classic seafood dishes like the chicharron de pescado ($24.99)—that's a whole fried red snapper, friends—and their myriad shrimp platters. I tried out the camarones al tamarindo ($18.99), which comes with some rice and a tasty little side salad topped with fresh fruit. This is a dish that really lets the sweet-and-sour flavor of tamarind off the leash, and it was an excellent sauce for the shrimp.
Sometimes when you're craving beach vibes downtown, you're looking for some smaller plates and cocktails to do the trick. This is another area in which La Cevicheria shines. Their cozy bar area is a great place to order up some oyster shots ($7 or $20 for a half dozen) or a bit of pate de atun ($11.99), which is a cool tuna spread served with crackers. They've got plenty of refreshing cocktails on the menu, along with a decent variety of tequila brands on hand for shots.
I'm one of those people who go into summer kicking and screaming, but I like having a place like La Cevicheria nearby. While beach vacations are great, sometimes you need a quicker fix. Some piquant, refreshing ceviche or fish tacos, along with a shot of tequila and a cold Modelo, have the magical ability to make me forget that I'm sweating in the middle of an unforgiving desert.