One of my early gigs as a local writer was a piece about the commercial space built by Atlas Architects on 900 South and Jefferson Street. It's been about seven years since the space has been in operation, and it's remained an anchor point amid all the development that has been happening in the area as of late.

After Meditrina pulled up its stakes and moved out in 2019, the newly christened Bar Nohm moved in; back then, it was just Nohm. Earlier this year, Bar Nohm made some exciting new changes with its layout, and I wanted to pop in and see how things were looking—and tasting, of course.

The new layout has realized the original concept's potential, as Bar Nohm has fully embraced its izakaya nature. Those familiar with Japanese nightlife will recognize the izakaya concept of small spots that specialize in small plates of food and creative cocktails, which is exactly what Bar Nohm is all about. Neighboring bar Water Witch has also been a big part of this reinvention, and the two establishments are connected by a doorway that allows for back-and-forth socializing. Bar Nohm has always been a cool spot to hang out, but I'm impressed with how the space has managed to evolve right alongside the neighborhood.

So let's say it's your first sojourn to Bar Nohm. The izakaya notion should tip you off that this place is a celebration of Asian-inspired foods and flavors. Chef David Chon pulls liberally from his own Korean heritage along with his experiences traveling throughout Asia. A big part of Bar Nohm's reinvention is a gracious attempt to bring a bit of Asian street culture to downtown Salt Lake City.

If you're meeting friends, the small plates are a great place to start. There's not really a bad bet when you're ordering from this side of the menu—if it sounds good, it is good. Obviously, the oysters ($23) are going to be a win, and the traditional condiments of lemon and cocktail sauce have been swapped with some kimchi, goji berry and a bit of wasabi. These combined with the bluefin sashimi ($23) make excellent bites for the early autumn nights still clinging to the summer heat.

I've always been a sucker for a dumpling, and the buckwheat dumpling ($15) is a lovely, surprising take on this familiar appetizer. As most dumplings I have known have been the typical quick-fix pan-fried variety, it's fun to see this little guy get a high-end makeover. The buckwheat is featured in the dumpling wrap, which is a rich, chocolatey brown and imparts a hearty, earthy flavor to the dish. Upon this solid foundation, you've got a savory mushroom filling and a topping of bulgogi-style beef. A little sliver of pickled carrot gives all this richness some acidic balance. It's a fantastic reinvention of a comfort food classic, and I can't recommend it enough.

Bar Nohm also has a tasty menu of grilled skewers that add a nice, meaty supplement to any meal. They grill up everything from chicken thighs ($5) to chicken hearts ($4) for fans of the poultry. I was a fan of the pork-wrapped enoki ($6), which consist of tiny bundles of adorable enoki mushrooms wrapped in thin strips of pork and fired up on the grill. Fans of bacon-wrapped anything will want to add this to their list pronto.

You'll notice that the large plates section of the menu is called anju, which is a Korean term for food that is meant to be consumed with alcohol. Admittedly, this concept was new to me, but it's yet another reason to fall in love with Korean food culture, I suppose. Food that is expected to be consumed with alcohol is a niche that Bar Nohm explores wholeheartedly—this is stuff that will stick to your bones and help absorb that liquor so you can keep right on partying.

I went with the kimchi rice ($22), and had zero regrets. It arrives in a sizzling skillet that evokes the visual aesthetic of paella. The rice gets its signature red color from kimchi instead of saffron—clever, clever—and it's served with thin slices of shrimp and nice, fatty sausage. Thin semicircles of daikon and small ribbons of nori complete the picture, making it almost too lovely to eat. My first sensation was that of the spicy kimchi—this packs a nice punch, and can take you by surprise if you're not a fan of spicy food.

As this was a dish that should be consumed with alcohol, I opted for the Bar Nohm Boilermaker ($10), which is a draft of Sapporo and a shot of IWAI 45 whiskey. I've never been unhappy with a cold Sapporo, and that IWAI 45 was revelatory—I may have to see if I can snag a bottle locally. I'd also recommend the Bar Nohm Highball ($12) as something cool and refreshing to combat the spicy kimchi.

Bar Nohm has fought pretty hard to make itself into the Central Ninth fixture it is today, and based on the current updates, I'd say the place is thriving. Whether you've been a Bar Nohm fan since the beginning or are just now thinking of checking it out, this place is always a good time.