
- Alex Springer
One of my favorite local commercial glow-ups has to be The Gateway. In the years since its big revamp, it's welcomed some of my favorite new restaurants, and has recaptured its place as one of my favorite downtown hangouts. The recent addition of Asher Adams—a new hotel from The Athens Group and Davidson Hospitality Group—may just be the jewel in the shopping district's crown. The hotel has converted the Union Pacific Depot into a swanky hotel that retains the former event space's historical connections to Salt Lake City.
I had a chance to visit Rouser, the hotel's restaurant proper, and it did not disappoint. Rouser is on the first floor of Asher Adams, just behind the front desk; it's got cool black-on-black signage that makes you feel like you're entering a railroad speakeasy. Like the hotel itself, Rouser pulls its interior design from the Union Pacific Depot's historical aesthetic, even incorporating the idea of coal-burning train engines into its charcoal rotisserie and grills.
Given the fact that Rouser's menu really favors these chic pieces of culinary hardware, you'll want to keep an eye on anything that is roasted or grilled for your main course—but let's not get too ahead of ourselves. Rouser's menu is designed to whet your palate with a few of its small plates before you dive into the mains and veggie sides.
If you're feeling spendy, you can kick your meal off with the charcoal-roasted seafood tower ($88). The "tower" portion of the name is no exaggeration, as this is a bounteous collection of grilled oysters, crab cakes, Australian king prawns, herb-grilled lobster and some littleneck clams for good measure. Not only will this showstopper provide plenty of pre-meal enjoyment, but it's also a good representation of the spectacular, shareable grilled items that Rouser does so well.
On the slightly more demure side of things, the roasted Spanish octopus ($22) and beef tartare ($22) are also excellent. The octopus arrived on a bed of butter lettuce, with a gorgeous-looking char on the edges. Each meaty slice has been roasted to textural perfection, and it's got a marvelous bite to it. The dish comes with some starchy smashed potatoes, which complemented the protein nicely. There's really nothing to complain about with this dish—the crispy charred edges and the perfectly cooked meat come together for a lovely contrast of flavors and textures.
The beef tartare also demonstrates a gorgeous assembly of rich, meaty flavor and silky-smooth texture. It's served with toasted sourdough bread, which is an ideal delivery method. I think what I liked most about this dish was that it really emphasized the flavor of the beef; it's a rich celebration of primo meat, with the capers and shallots adding enough acid to prop all that flavor up in just the right ways.
If you're like me, it just feels like something is missing if you don't have a bread course, which is why I'd also recommend the Parker House rolls ($9). They arrive in a pull-apart style, piping hot in their own skillet and served with a drizzle of honey along with butter sprinkled with cultured ash. The rolls themselves are composed of a dreamlike softness, and that aforementioned cultured ash imparts a great smoky note to the butter.
Moving on to the large plates, you'll want to turn your attention to the rotisserie section. For starters, you've got a piri piri heirloom chicken ($38 for a half, $68 for a whole) served with an Asian-inspired collection of cabbage kimchi and linguica fried rice, and you can't go wrong here. On Sundays, you can get the "Just On Sundays" prime rib ($74) made with dry-aged prime rib and served with scorched broccolini.
During my visit, however, I went with the Duroc pork porchetta ($49). I feel like having a porchetta on your rotisserie menu is quite the flex, as this Italian dish requires plenty of time and preparation. The pork loin itself is tender and flavorful, and the skin has a delightful crunch to it. The protein is served with some charred broccolini, roasted potatoes and a nice carrot and fennel salad for acidity. You can't really go wrong with anything from the rotisserie, but this is the one to get when you want something truly unique.
Along with the large plates, Rouser has a veggie menu that makes for great side dishes. I tried a few of them—the buried potatoes ($12), the roasted beets ($12) and the charred carrots ($12)—since it's a proven fact that vegetables absorb calories, right? Don't let the unassuming names fool you; I could easily see making a whole meal of these supporting acts. The buried potatoes come with a slightly spicy bravas sauce, and are an excellent starchy supplement to any dish. I liked them a lot, but they didn't hold a candle to the charred carrots, which come with Rouser's homemade mole sauce. I wouldn't have thought a carrot could carry a dish, but it turns out all they need to take the spotlight is some flavorful mole. The roasted beets were also stellar, as they are perfectly tender and served up with some whipped ricotta.
In retrospect, my meal at Rouser was the perfect way to end another year of exciting culinary experiences. Amid the rotisserie-focused mains and the thoughtfully composed side dishes, I found myself seeing Rouser as just the right mix of past and future.