- Alex Springer
It's not very likely that I'll take up with a band of adventurers tasked with a dangerous but lucrative quest to secure a rare artifact or destroy a tyrannical monster. Even if I got that opportunity, I really don't know what my doughy ass could contribute—unless said adventurers needed someone to document their exploits. If a bushy-eyebrowed wizard did push me out the door on a grand adventure, however, I would make sure to start things off with a visit to Bohemian Brewery (94 E. 7200 South, 801-566-5474, bohemainbrewery.com). With its exposed stone interior, log walls, antler-fashioned chandeliers and 32-ounce mugs of beer, it feels like a place where heroes would gather.
Bohemian Brewery originally opened in 2001, the passion project of the late Joe Petras, who wanted to bring the food, culture and lagers of his native Czechoslovakia to the Wasatch Front. In 2018, Matt Bourgeois, Byron Lovell and Brian O'Meara—owners of The Dodo, Porcupine Pub and Grille and the Rio Grande Café—purchased the brewery, and preserved its rustic décor and Eastern European menu. I've been meaning to write up Bohemian Brewery for a while now, and based on the midweek crowd that was present during my visit, I'm the only one who has been sleeping on this Midvale gastropub. Whether it's the tempting aroma of grilling brats or the wide variety of lagers and ales on tap, Bohemian Brewery knows how to maintain a following.
My objective for the evening was pure Bavarian—I always enjoy a well-grilled bratwurst, but I was also eager to try some of Bohemian Brewery's other European eats. The menu includes a plate of pierogies and bratwurst ($19.95) which is a great place to start. Pierogies and brats together on one plate is a perfect double feature for me, since both foods have a special place in my heart. The savory pierogies at Bohemian Brewery are stuffed with cheesy potatoes and topped with chopped bacon—never gonna say no to that—and the two bratwursts spooning on my plate had achieved caramelized perfection from the grill. The center of the plate is dominated by house-made sauerkraut with generous dollops of mustard and dill-infused sour cream, which helps add some contrast to the primary flavors.
I started by cutting into the brats and relished the satisfying pop of the casing as soon as I took my first bite. These are as good as grilled bratwurst can get—piping hot, full of garlicky, black-peppery flavor and immensely satisfying. The pierogies are a nice foil to the rich, meaty flavor of the brats, and swiping them through that dill sour cream is a good way to reset your palate for more. My only gripe about the dish was that the sauerkraut was a bit on the sweet side, which threw me off, as I like my fermented cabbage to lean a bit more on its acidity. Regardless of my preference, this plate is a knockout, and I'd definitely want this in my belly before striking out on a grand adventure.
The other thing your complete experience at Bohemian Brewery requires is a bit of their signature spaetzle, a variation on egg noodles that's served in an inviting pile of irregular shapes. You can get it as a side ($5.75) with a cup of dark brown mushroom gravy, or you can get it as the base for your beef stroganoff ($22.95). Of course, the latter option is the best way to experience their spaetzle—its soft, dumpling-style texture goes very well with oceans of gravy and chunks of tender roast beef. If you're not feeling making it the focal point of your meal, the side portion will be an excellent complement to whatever entrée you get.
Once you've conquered the food menu, it's time to turn your attention to the menu of craft beer on tap, and it's a staggering variety. I went with my server's recommendation of the Viennese Lager, which comes in 16-, 24- and yes, 32-ounce mugs. I was happy with the choice—it starts sweet and smooth and leaves a nice, pretzelly flavor on the tongue. Again, making your perfect beer and food pairing at Bohemian Brewery is a serious endeavor, but I could see that Viennese Lager being a good all-around choice.
As I finished my food and savored the scent of grilled bratwursts and rich brown gravy, I thought about how my longing for adventure and my visit to Bohemian Brewery may have been cosmically related. This place has been a Utah favorite for years now, and perhaps I am just now being drawn to it because adventure is looming on my horizon. Whether that's true or not, I'm glad I paid a visit to this Midvale mainstay. If a grand quest doesn't come my way, I'll be happy with undertaking a moderate quest to try all the beer on the menu.
